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Steelhead Drift Fishing Techniques

This technique is affective on STEELHEAD, SALMON & TROUT

Drift fishing is easy, fun and effective. Many anglers have used the technique over the years. This technique only gains in popularity as more and more streams across the country are supporting trout, steelhead and salmon runs. Whether a beginner or a more experienced angler, this article will help, you become even more successful using the drift fishing method of fishing.

One of the most important, things you can do to improve your fishing success, is to maintain razor sharp hooks on your lures at all times. A fine-toothed file such as Luhr Jensen’s Sharp Hook FileTM is the absolute best hook-sharpening tool available. You hold it parallel to the hook point and with gentle, one-way strokes; remove a small amount of metal on at least two sides of the point. This will create a point with a razor-like cutting edge. Keep the file clean and dry and occasionally spray it with a non-corrosive lubricant such as WD-40. Sharp Hook FilesTM are available in 5 1/2′ x 3/4″ or 4 1/4″ x 5/8″ sizes.
© Luhr Jensen & Sons, Inc.

Typical drift fishing waters consist of a series of pools and rapids, with the pools (drifts) holding feeding, resting or migrating fish. Drifting lures through these pool areas, with the drift fishing technique, will often produce excellent results. The basic drift fishing technique consists of casting across and upstream, and then allowing your drift bobber and accompanying sinker to drift naturally downstream in the current, the sinker gently bouncing along the bottom. When your lure has drifted back near the bank, it is reeled in and another cast and drift made.

Buoyant drift bobbers simulate fish egg clusters, shrimp or other natural baits. Corkies, Sammie’s, and Spin-n-glows are some of the more common ones used. Their success is attributed to their color, action and buoyancy as they are drifted naturally along the bottom through fish-holding water.

There are scores of ways to add weight ahead of a drift bobber. Pencil lead, either solid or hollow core, is the most popular and has proved both economical and easy to use.

Some examples are depicted below:


Solid pencil lead is best fastened to your line using a Lead CinchTM, which consists of a three-way swivel and a length of surgical tubing. Your main line is tied to one end of the swivel, leader and bobber to the other end and a section of pencil lead inserted into the Lead CinchTM (surgical tubing). If the lead becomes snagged, it will pull away from the tubing and your drift bobber and tubing can be retrieved.

LEAD CINCHTM: Surgical tubing and swivel rig for holding and attaching solid pencil lead. It comes ready to tie on and is available in three different diameters to fit all popular lead sizes.

LEAD TIP: Your pencil lead should always hang straight, as a bent or crooked piece of lead will often result in twisting or tangling of your line.

One of the big tricks to successful drift fishing is to select just the right amount of weight for the water you are fishing. A weight that is too heavy will snag easily while one that is too light will not keep your drift bobber near the bottom where the fish are. The ideal weight is one that results in a tap-tap-skip action as it makes regular contact with the bottom and then rises a bit before hitting again.

Experienced drift anglers usually start working an unknown drift with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch piece of pencil lead. After making a drift or two, they know if they need to shorten it or lengthen it until the drift feels just right with that tap-tap-skip action.

Hollow pencil lead is best fastened by crimping it to a short leader dropped from a barrel swivel as shown in the illustrations. If this lead becomes snagged, a sharp pull will free the lead from the drop leader and your drift bobber, leader and swivel can normally be retrieved.

Pencil lead comes in coils or long sections so you can cut off the desired amount. Most lead available through sport shops comes in diameters of 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch.

Successful drift fishing requires that your line be close to the bottom. Hence, it is important to use a heavier line than you would ordinarily select for lake fishing, as it will have to take the added bottom-scraping abrasion that comes with drifting. We recommend that you use a premium quality, monofilament line, such as Trilene XT® or Berkley® Big Game.

There are three instinctive reasons a fish bites a drift bobber: It is either hungry, protecting its territory or curious. Although strikes can be hard, they are often almost undetectable especially for the novice angler. Some fish will only lightly mouth a bobber and this kind of “take” is very difficult to discern from the lure’s ordinary bottom tapping. Many fish are lost or not hooked simply because the angler just cannot detect these soft pickups. There are, however, two things you can do which will help you seize these light-biters: Use razor-sharp hooks and add some yarn below your bobber.

Sharp hooks are critical no matter what kind of fishing you do, but they become even more important when trying to hook light-biting fish while drift fishing. A fish will have a great deal of difficulty getting a razor-sharp hook out if its mouth without it sinking in somewhere. Once a sharp point catches, every move the fish makes to expel it will only drive it deeper and you will feel a harder “hit” as the fish attempts to throw it.

Yarn is your second edge for hooking light-biters. The addition of a tuft of colorful yarn just ahead of your hook and below the drift bobber will add color and contrast to your lure; it will also make it very difficult for a fish to spit out the hook. Once taken, the yarn tangles in the fish’s teeth and every effort to get rid of the lure will send another signal to you to set the hook.

Drift anglers use yarn to give their lures added appeal and color. By tying a tuft on the hook itself, or just below the bobber so as not to interfere with its action, you will often increase a bobber’s effectiveness. As indicated earlier, yarn also can catch in the teeth of fish, allowing you extra time to feel the “set” and set the hook.

Written on October 15th, 2008 , Drift Fishing, Steelhead Fishing Tags:
Steelhead Fishing in the Northwest

Steelhead fishing in Oregon, Washington and Idaho has some of the finest steelhead fishing found anywhere in the world. The abundant rivers and rainfall that frequent the Pacific Northwest coast provides for ideal steelhead and salmon fishing opportunities. Just about any time of year, a steelhead angler can find an opportunity to pursue steelhead. Idaho thanks to the Snake, Clearwater, and Salmon Rivers offers the angler fishing opportunities from August through the end of April.

Steelheads are the most sought after game fish here in the Northwest and possibly the world. There are some excellent runs of native fish that angler can fish for along the coastline. These native fish are on a catch and release basis only however.

Most rivers in Oregon and Washington have both Summer Steelhead and Winter Steelhead. The summer run fish begin arriving in the spring and stay in the rivers until the next winter when they spawn and head back to the ocean. These summer fish are very aggressive and will take lures, flies, bait and most anything, that is presented to them. The summer steelhead when they come back into the rivers are aggressive feeders and they actually revert back to the behaviors of a big rainbow trout as they live in the rivers for many months before actually spawning.

Fishing for these fish can be very exciting as they are very acrobatic and jump frequently and are very strong fighting fish. The summer fish are a very colorful fish with similar markings to a trout. One exception is the metallic looking head and the big red stripe down the side. Steelheads are also much bigger than a trout. Winter Steelhead begin coming into the rivers in the late fall usually with the first good rainfall. The first to arrive are the hatchery fish, which traditionally begin to show around thanksgiving on some rivers with the bulk of the runs occurring from Christmas to mid January.

The native fish usually come in later beginning in February and continuing until April or so. These winter fish are chrome bright as they enter the rivers and will be a dark blue on the back with bright silver white sides.

The winter steelheads are not as aggressive biters as the summer fish and can be quite challenging to catch. These fish are coming in to spawn and they usually do this quickly after entering the fresh water. Because they do begin to discolor quickly and begin there spawning activity almost immediately after entering there home rivers it is very important to be on the river in the right spot at the right time with the right river conditions to be able to catch a beautiful chrome bright winter steelhead. It is a very good idea to go with someone that knows the river well or hire a guide if you wish to have good success on the winter fish.

Idaho anglers are somewhat limited as compared to the opportunities of the coastal fisheries. However, Idaho does provide some great steelhead fishing. The Clearwater River is world renowned for its B-Run steelhead, which are some of the largest fish found any where in the world. Thanks to the efforts off the national fisheries service and hatcheries one the Clearwater there are plenty of fish for the angler to search out.

The Steelhead is one of the most popular game fish in the world and for that reason when the fishing is good expect some company while fishing for them.

Native steelhead can get quite large with fish in the 20-pound or larger being common. On occasion, the angler will catch a 30 pound plus fish as well. The Northwest has many hatchery steelhead programs designed to allow the angler to catch and keep some of these fine eating fish as well. The hatchery fish usually do not get as large as the natives do. However, it still is common for an angler to hook into a 20 plus pound hatchery steelhead.

There are many organizations dedicated to improving salmon, trout and steelhead habitat through out the Northwest. These organizations are working to improve the fishing publics’ opportunity to catch them. As a steelhead angler, it would be in your best interest to support these local organizations. They do some fine work protecting and preserving this fabulous resource for all of us to enjoy.

Oregon and Washington have several “Brood stock Programs” in progress which are designed to allow the Steelhead in there native river to pass on there genes to the hatchery programs. These are very good programs and allow the native fish of a particular river to remain genetically pure without the influence of hatchery fish from another river to interbreed with them. This allows the steelhead angler to keep a hatchery fish that is actually from wild stock. I encourage you to support any and all of these efforts to preserve this very important fishing resource.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Steelhead Fishing Tags:
General Steelhead Fishing Information

One of the most important things a steelhead angler needs to learn is the run timing of the rivers they fish. Some good ways to do this is watching for other anglers, contacting local hatcheries for return information. You can also read fishing articles, and check several Websites for updated information on Steelhead returns. In addition, successful steelhead angling depends primarily on river levels or flow rates. This usually affects water clarity, and the water temperature. Which play a major part in the steelheads activities. You can find this information on the USGS website for almost all rivers and this information is kept current as to flows and anticipated flows. If you head out after a heavy rain, with a few exceptions you will be wasting your time. Steelhead can be caught in muddy water but the fishing is going to be tough. Clear water is good, green or slightly colored water is even better, so call someone if you can and find out how the rivers and fishing are. Most of your locale tackle shops will be able to provide you some information.

Over the years I have learned that line size, hook size and weight affect the drift angle and your presentation of the bait. This plays a big role in increasing the percentage of strikes. You could write a book about each one of these items. A general rule to remember is to decrease the size of each of the above-mentioned items. If you use this rule, you will be on the right tract. I have learned that when drift fishing from a boat, different styles of boats react differently in the current. This too has a direct affect on the way the angler is able to drift the bait along the bottom.

Small spinners, drifted yarn flies, and float-fished roe bags, or shrimp are deadly on most steelhead rivers, so are black or brown nymph imitations. Sometimes under the right conditions, steelhead will go crazy for medium-sized spoons and/or spinners. (I wish I could tell you what these conditions are but I never know when they prefer these.) You cast them quartering upstream, let them sink to the bottom and drift with the current. It is important to note here the key is having the right amount of weight. You want your bait or lure to hit bottom then float and drift a few feet before hitting bottom again. You should feel a tap, tap on your rod tip as it hits bottom and then floats. Once it nears the end of the drift start, a slow retrieve back in.

During the early and late steelhead season, fly-fishing anglers that are skilled at nymph fishing can do very well in many of the runs. You can fly fish for steelhead with less knowledge about bugs and hatches as it is more about presentation. Small jigs and egg patterns are typically used for steelhead, which means less worry about what fly you should be using. You should be ready for cold-water fishing as the water temperatures can be in the mid 40-degree range. For those who enjoy this type of fishing it can be extremely satisfying. For early season steelhead, try swinging streamers made of rabbit or marabou. If a steelhead is out there they should produce a strike and for whatever reason they seem to hit this type of fly hard. For the late season steelhead, any of the egg patterns available should provide you with some action.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Fishing, General Information Tags:
Jig Fishing for Steelhead or Salmon

One reason jig fishing for steelhead or salmon has become so popular is their ease of use. You find a place you want to fish. You determine the depth of the hole your fishing. Then adjust your float to that depth and you are fishing.

It is a good idea to use a longer steelhead rod then you may normally. I like rods in the eight to ten foot range. The longer rod allows me to keep the line from my float to my rod tip out of the current and presents a more natural drift. You can use the shorter rods though, I use shorter rods in the smaller steams that I fish. They are easier for me to control especially when the bank is grown over with willows and other shrubs. I also like to use a swivel and a lighter leader so if I do hang up I do not lose my float along with my jig.

Say the hole has long seam where fast and slow currents come together. You estimated the water to be five feet deep. Then adjust your float so that your jig is four feet below your float when it hits the bobber stop and you are ready. Cast your line up-steam out where the seam of the faster current mingles with the slower current and simply let the current drift your jig down through the hole. Keep an eye on your float if it is stopping or bouncing as it drifts you will need to reduce the depth at which you are fishing. If you see this happening, you should reel in and make this adjustment before you snag up. Jigs like to find a rock and I am sure that they crawl under them just so you will not be able to cast them back out again. Make sure you adjust them so they do not get a chance to hang or you will be tying on a new jig.

Most of the time when jig fishing you don’t need to be right on the bottom. Steelhead will move up quite a distance to take a jig. If you feel that, you are drifting over the top of the steelhead and not getting strikes. You can lengthen the distance between you float and jig a little with each cast. Once you see your float bouncing and stopping again reel in, shorten the distance between your float, and jig by about a foot. You are now drifting the hole it what I call the strike zone.

Once you have, the depth set you can start fishing in earnest. Make sure you cover the entire drift buy make three or four cast in the same location. Then Cast out a foot or two farther for three or four cast. You will want to continue this until you are sure that you have covered all of the fishable water. It is important that you make a cast in the same location for three or four times. Steelhead will often just ignore your jig the first time that it passes them. When it keeps floating by, they are likely to hit it just because it is bothering them.

Steelhead fishing has a complex quantity of rules and you will learn that many of them work. However, you will find that not all of them work all the time. It is a good idea if you are fishing a drift that you know has steelhead in it and you have not gotten any strikes that you change things up. You may want to try some type of attractant. Try adding a small spawn sack, maybe a small piece of shrimp, or even one of the many scents that are available today. Change colors and the size of your jigs if your old faithful steelhead jig is not working.

There will be times where for what ever reason the steelhead are suspend in the river and not hanging on the bottom like normal so do not be afraid of raising your jig off the bottom if you are not having any luck fishing deep.

As with any new technique, it may take you a while to master it. Be persistent and give this technique an honest try it works and works well for many Steelhead anglers. Once you realize how productive fishing a jig is you too will be hooked.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Fishing, Jig Fishing Tags:
Steelhead and Rainbow Trout are the Same Species

The rainbow trout and the steelhead are the same species of fish; the difference between the two names is the two distinct lives that they live. The name rainbow trout is used for the rainbow trout that does not leave the stream to go to the ocean. They spend their entire life in the lakes, rivers and stream. The name steelhead is for the rainbow trout which migrates to the ocean where it spend most of its adult life before return to the same steam in which they were raised making them an anadromous rainbow or more commonly called a steelhead.

Anadromous steelhead and resident rainbow trout come from the same evolutionary lines. There is a close genetic and biological relationship between these two forms. The anadromous form “Steelhead” can convert to resident populations “Rainbow Trout” when drought events or damming of rivers blocks their access to the ocean. And the same is true of the resident rainbow trout population which can become anadromous if they should find access to the ocean. It is common to have both life history patterns occurring in the same stream. It is possible for, resident and anadromous parents to produce offspring of both varieties.

While know one knows for sure it is widely speculated that there is a food related trigger which will determines whether a particular fish emigrates to the ocean or remains in the stream. Some who have studied this believe that if there is abundant food in the stream and a fish grow at a rapid rate, they will remain in the stream. However if their food resource is limited and their growth is slowed, they will have an inclination to immigrate to the ocean if possible.

This ability of the steelhead and rainbow trout makes the species more adaptable to the changing ecological conditions. In the southern limits of steelhead distribution this is has played an important role for the steelhead due to unstable, variable climatic and hydrographic conditions that disrupt their normal migration.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , General Information Tags:
Jig Fishing Steelhead

I know a lot of hard core Fly Fisherman will have a fit to hear that I do still use a spinning rod, and casting rod for catching fish but I just love fishing of any kind.

Taking many of my less experienced friends and some for first time Steelhead fishing I have found a way to get them hooked into a fish without much coaching. This technique is simple to learn and if done properly losing gear is at a minimum. This is great for the first timers or the less experience because it lets them spend more time fishing and less time tying up riggings. This system is also very productive if done properly and I have caught quite a few steelhead using this method myself.

Using a slip bobber or float is one of the easiest ways to take steelhead that I have found for the bank fisherman this method is also used by boaters since it is so productive. With the slip bobber you are able to adjust the depth of your jig or bait so that it drifts just off the bottom of the river. I have seen this method used by fishermen fishing off of a jetty or pier and they too had very good success while using this method.

One of the best place to use this method is in a slow flowing section of the river the depth of the hole is not important since you are able to adjust the depth of the jig easily. As long as the current is slow enough to allow the jig or bait to drift naturally and the depth remains constant at least through a portion of the hole it should be a good place to try this method.

Knowing where the steelhead like to lay is the key to this system as with any fishing technique, and the easiest way to find this out is to watch where others are fishing if any are around. Once you learn how to read a river you will be able to use this technique in a number of spots, learning how to read a river will come with time. If you are new to the sport most fisherman will be glad to give you some pointers just be courteous when joining your fellow fishermen on the river.

When you find that place where you are going to fish the technique is simple cast upstream from where you are standing watch the corky once your line hits the water. Make sure the corky is on top of your float if it’s not you may have to give your line a sharp short jerk to get your jig to flow freely through your float. Let your float drift naturally through the hole and keep up the slack in your line. Most of the time when a fish hits your jig your float will go under, however watch your float closely and if it should make any unnatural movement set the hook.

Items Required:

Slip Bobber Swivel Jig Egg Sinker Corky Bobber Stop
Slip bobber Barrel swivel Jig Egg Sinker Corky Bobber Stop

Setting up your line:
1st slip on the bobber stop then bead and run it up the line about 5 feet or so
2nd Thread on the corky
3rd Thread on your float
4th Thread on the Egg Sinker
5th Now tie one end of your swivel to the end of your line. (I like to use the double cinch knot)
6th Take your jig and tie it to your leader which should be between 12 to 18 inches long.
The leader should be lighter then you’re main line.
7th Tie the jig and leader to your swivel.

Once you have this tied up it should look something like the following example!

Bobber Setup

If you are having trouble with this system or just would like some more information on this technique you may email me and russ@steelhead-salmon-trout-fishing.com and I will try to help you out.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Fishing, Jig Fishing Tags:
Fly Rod Selection Tips

Selecting Your Fly Rod:

A lot of fly fishermen take the sport of Fly Fishing very seriously. Going past the fact that it is a way to catch fish and also to enjoy the outdoors, fly fishermen think of what they do as a work of art. The talent and Skill that fly fishing requires is deserving of this status. Fly fishing is a great deal more involved than regular fishing, and it takes practice and dedication to become efficient at the sport of fly fishing. The majority of fly fishermen will tell you, nonetheless, that it is positively worth the time and effort that is required. Once you have the fortune of having a fish hit your fly just before it reaches the end of a drift you will be hooked too! While gaining experience and knowledge on how to fly fish, or even if you have tried fly fishing for some time, having the appropriate fly fishing rod is key to your success and enjoyment. There are a number of fly fishing rod types on the market, bamboo, graphite, fiberglass are the most popular, and which one you decide to use should be based on what type of fishing your intending to do. The right rod will be one that is comfortable to use, matches your fly fishing techniques, and the types of waters you intend to fish.

Bamboo Fly Fishing Rods

Bamboo fly fishing rods were one of the first fly fishing rods Built and used, their popularity for this reason is understandable and explains while they are still being made. Bamboo fishing rods are light and flexible they have a smooth slow action making them popular with those who practice a more polished method of fly fishing. Many fly fishing enthusiasts will tell you a lot of good things about bamboo fly fishing rods. A lot of fly fishermen swear by them they feel they are the best type of fly fishing rod made. Bamboo fly fishing rods do have a lot of positive features and this may lead many to believe that they are the best type out there, just remember this is their personal opinion base on their fishing style. The making of a bamboo fly fishing rod is a complicated and exact process; this reason tends to make them the one of the more expensive fly fishing rods out there.

Graphite Fly Fishing Rods

Fly fishing rods made of graphite seem to be a little stiffer, but this does not mean that they are any less valuable. The graphite fly fishing rod is a very strong fly fishing rod, (“strength can vary depending on its quality”). The graphite rods have good performance and resilience and are able to take more abuse then the bamboo rods. Graphite rods vary in price and design, so picking out the right graphite rod for you will be a matter of your personal choice and your budget.

Fiberglass Fishing Rods

Many fishing rods made today are made of fiberglass weather they are used for (regular) fishing or (fly) fishing. Fiberglass is a perfect material for fishing rods as it is strong, durable, and flexible, the one draw back to fiberglass rods is that the tend to be a little heavier. This could mean that when your done fishing for the day that your arm may be tired and sore. I believe that especially for the beginner the fiberglass rod is an excellent choice due to its strength and being able to take a lot more punishment from the inexperienced fly fisherman. The fiberglass rod is a popular choice for many fly fishermen due to these facts and is one of the more affordable choices on the market today.

Fly Fishing for Beginners

A great resource that provides you with some great Fly Fishing Tips and Techniques. This resource will have you catching more fish because “whether you’ve been fishing since they invented hooks, or just starting out, you’ll be surprised at what you can still learn about fly fishing from these two dedicated fly fishing anglers that have since past! Thankfully for us, they put this resource together for us to learn in days what took them a lifetime to find out.

In Fly Fishing for BeginnersYou will learn:

* The exciting history behind fly-fishing
* Surprising beginner tips, tricks and techniques
* What fly-fishing is all about
* The necessary equipment you need – from flies to rods and accessories
* How to tie your own flies
* Types of casting and common problems to avoid
* The advantages and disadvantages of wet vs. dry fly-fishing
* The best time of day for fly-fishing so you catch the most fish
* Fly-fishing techniques used specifically for boat or land casting
* The exhilarating practice of winter fly-fishing
* How to plan the perfect fly-fishing excursion
* The best fly-fishing locations from coast to coast, and abroad
* Along with much, much, More!
Pick up a copy today by clicking the link above.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Fly Fishing Rods Tags:
Want to Start Tying Flies Here’s the tools need!

So your thinking of tying your own flies well you are just steps away from what I feel is one of the most rewarding hobbies around today. Tying your own flies is not only relaxing and rewarding, it can be a very productive way of putting more fish on the end of your fly line.

To get started you will need some basic fly tying tools and like most hobbies as your interest grows so will the supplies and tools you use. For now we will just talk about the basic tools you will need to get started. The following is a list of the basic items you will need to get started.

Fly Tying Vise
Hackle Pliers
Hair Stacker
Fly Tying Scissors
Thread Bobbin
Bodkin and
Whip Finisher
+ Tags

The Fly Tying Vise
Fly ViseOne of the most important parts of your tool kit will be the fly vise when choosing your vise it is imperative that you have a vise that is easy to use and even more importantly that it holds your fly hook securely. Purchasing your fly vise is no where to try and save on your budget I recommend buying a vise of high quality remember you get what you pay for.

Hackle Pliers
Good hackle pliers will hold the feather firmly without breaking off the tips of the hackle. Hackle PliersEnglish hackle pliers are quite reasonably priced They are a good choice for starting to collect your tying tools. Some of they more expensive hackle pliers have revolving handles, a lot like those found on whip-finishers. Pliers with a revolving handle helps prevent the hackle from becoming twisted while wrapping the hackle around the hook.

Hair Stacker
Hair StackerTying the bucktail streamers you will find a hair stacker is essential. A good hair stacker will have some weight to it selecting a brass hair stacker makes good since for this reason, as it will allow you to use less energy when straitening the hair. This is just my personal preference however.

Fly Tying Scissorsfly Tying Scissor
Make sure you purchase scissors that are made for fly tying and watch out for cheap scissors nothing can be more frustrating then trying to trim up your fly while having to fight a pair of scissors that will not cut the delicate materials that you will be using. You can usually purchase a good quality pair of scissors for around $10 to $12 dollars.

Thread Bobbin
Thread BobbinThe thread bobbin is a great tool for holding your thread and makes the wind of the thread around the hook a lot simpler then fighting the thread strait off the bobbin itself. Make sure when purchasing your thread bobbin that the barrel which the thread goes through does not have any sharp edges as this is not a good thing when winding your thread around the hook.

 
The bodkinBodkin
The bodkin is basically a large needle mounted on to a handle this tool become very useful for separating fine strands of material that you will want to add to your fly, cleaning, arranging and adding drops of cement. You will soon appreciate having this tool once you start fly tying.

Whip FinisherWhip Finisher
This tool helps tie half hitch knots and for wrapping and finishing your fly once you get use to using this tool you will wonder how you ever did without it. If you are just starting out or if you have tied flies before flies you will appreciate this tool.

One of the best ways of getting started tying flies is to buy a kit just make sure that it has at least the above mentioned items.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Fly Tying Tags:
Selecting the Right Rod Action in Your Steelhead Rod

Rod Action:
Rod Action is the term used to describe how much of the rod bends when pressure is put on the tip. A fast action rod will bend in only the top third or less of the rod. A medium or moderate action will bend in the top half. A slow action will bend starting in the lower third of the rod. Sometimes slow action rods are termed ‘parabolic’, meaning the bend of the rod is similar throughout the length.

These descriptions are subjected to the type of rod you may be talking about at the time; a fast action fly rod or steelhead rod will bend much lower and more easily than a fast action bass rod or offshore rod.

Most bass rod actions are fast to very fast because this action generally provides better sensitivity and faster power for hook setting. By faster power I mean the rod ‘shuts off’ faster, or the bend ends higher on the blank, which means you don’t have to move the rod as far on the hook set to get into the stiffer part of the Rod.

Fast action rods are great for most applications where a short to medium casting distance is involved and single hooks are the rule, such as corky and bait fishing.

Medium and medium-fast rods will usually provide a little more casting distance and still provide adequate hook setting power. These actions are often used for applications that involve treble hooks, like using a hot shot. The ‘strike’ of a treble hook is not as deep as a big single hook and it is easier to tear the hook out of a strong fish, plus the slower action will not pull the lure out of the fish’s mouth before it fully engulfs it. Yet you still will have the power for a good hook set.

Slow action rods will give you a better feel when drift fishing and may help you feel the strike a little easier. Since they are more responsive, you may be able to notice that subtle difference between bouncing over a rock and having a steelhead picking it up. When using a slow action rod you need to remember that setting the hook is going to require you to use more force when jerking.

The type of lure you use will usually determine the action of the rod you should use.

Taper:
Often used as “action”, describes not only the thickness of the rod but also the thickness of the wall of the blank and where along the blank less material is used allowing more bend. For the most part taper is the same as action.

Power:
Is used to describe the strength of the rod or its lifting power. When you hear someone say this rod has a lot of backbone, it means it has a lot of power. Power ratings are usually describes as heavy, medium heavy, medium, etc.

Power is closely related to the line strength; heavier power rods will handle heavy line weights and lighter powers will be good for light lines.

One important factor to keep in mind when selecting the power of your rod is the test of the line your line. Most all rods will have the line test limits printed on the rod. It is important to follow these recommendations since a heavy power rod will snap light lines too easily and heavy lines can snap a light rod.

Power ratings vary by the type of rod described; a heavy Steelhead rod and a heavy offshore rod will definitely not feel the same. A heavy steelhead rod rated for 20lb test line will not perform like a heavy off shore rod rated for 80lb test line.

The type of water you are fishing will help determine the power of the rod you should select. Fishing in high, fast moving or murky water will require a strong rod to get the fish out before it can make a long run and throw the hook. Clear, open water will often require thin, hard seeing lines in order to get the steelhead to bite, meaning you should use a lighter power rod.

Responsiveness:
Related to modulus this is an idea that reflects the ability of the entire rod to flex under load and release the stored energy in the cast. One thing is for sure, the lighter the rod, especially the tip, the more responsive it will be. If you are serious about steelhead fishing, you want a light yet responsive rod. As Gary Loomis puts it, “weight is the deterrent to performance”. Overall, the higher the modulus the more efficiently it will store and release energy, which gives you the ability to make an accurate, cast with a lower arc.

Guides:
Most of the guides you will find on rods today feature a metal frame and a ceramic ring that the line rest on as it glides through the glides. These rings can vary greatly in price, and one single guide on a spinning rod may cost in excess of $30 or as little as a couple of bucks.

Silicon carbide, or SiC, is usually considered the best material today. It offers a super smooth surface for less friction on the line during the cast and the retrieve. Less friction means longer casts and less heat, and heat kills when it comes to fishing lines.

As for the brand name or the type of rod weather, it is casting or spinning it comes down more of a personal choice. Your main goal when selecting rod action is finding one the will match the type of fishing you plan on doing.

Written on October 14th, 2008 , Rods Tags: ,
When and Where to Use Jigs for Steelhead

Steelhead Jig
It is easier to discuss the times and places where jigs do not work well than it is to list all the times they
will work. The steelhead jig relies mainly on color and action to trigger a strike. Therefore, you can expect them to perform poorly in low visibility water. When the visibility is less than two feet, it is time to switch to some other type of lure or bait. For similar reasons jigs do not work well in the fast pockets of water in the rivers. In almost every other steelheading water, jigs will prove to be deadly.

Jigs come into their own in slow moving or still water. Which in my opinion is some of the hardest spots to fish for a steelhead with the conventional drifting techniques? With the wiggle of marabou or rabbit fur combined with a small dab of bait or scent, jigs are deadly. Jigs are the most effective steelhead lure you can use in slow or still water.

Jigs also work well in moderate to fast currents as long as the water has good visibility. In clear water, nothing beats tiny jigs. When tipped with a single egg, a piece of earthworm, or a piece of shrimp they become deadly. In conditions most of us find ourselves fishing, the two to ten foot deep-water jigs work extremely well. Moreover, in a current that is moving at two to four knots the jig will prove to be irresistible to steelhead. As your float bounces along in the wavy surface of the water, the jig mirrors that action right in the heart of the steelhead’s den. Few steelhead can resist a brightly colored bit of marabou or rabbit fur that dips and swoops through their living room. Tip your jig with a small piece of shrimp or worm and it is a snack that steelhead find hard to refuse.

I will not go steelhead fishing without the equipment I need to setup for jig fishing. It has proven itself to me repeatedly. Jig fishing is also a great way to start someone out steelhead fishing if they have never been steelhead fishing before. You set them up with a jig show them where they need to drift and tell them that when the float goes under they need to set the hook.

Written on October 13th, 2008 , Jig Fishing Tags:
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