Archive for the ‘Jig Fishing’ Category

One reason jig fishing for steelhead or salmon has become so popular is their ease of use. You find a place you want to fish. You determine the depth of the hole your fishing. Then adjust your float to that depth and you are fishing.

It is a good idea to use a longer steelhead rod then you may normally. I like rods in the eight to ten foot range. The longer rod allows me to keep the line from my float to my rod tip out of the current and presents a more natural drift. You can use the shorter rods though, I use shorter rods in the smaller steams that I fish. They are easier for me to control especially when the bank is grown over with willows and other shrubs. I also like to use a swivel and a lighter leader so if I do hang up I do not lose my float along with my jig.

Say the hole has long seam where fast and slow currents come together. You estimated the water to be five feet deep. Then adjust your float so that your jig is four feet below your float when it hits the bobber stop and you are ready. Cast your line up-steam out where the seam of the faster current mingles with the slower current and simply let the current drift your jig down through the hole. Keep an eye on your float if it is stopping or bouncing as it drifts you will need to reduce the depth at which you are fishing. If you see this happening, you should reel in and make this adjustment before you snag up. Jigs like to find a rock and I am sure that they crawl under them just so you will not be able to cast them back out again. Make sure you adjust them so they do not get a chance to hang or you will be tying on a new jig.

Most of the time when jig fishing you don’t need to be right on the bottom. Steelhead will move up quite a distance to take a jig. If you feel that, you are drifting over the top of the steelhead and not getting strikes. You can lengthen the distance between you float and jig a little with each cast. Once you see your float bouncing and stopping again reel in, shorten the distance between your float, and jig by about a foot. You are now drifting the hole it what I call the strike zone.

Once you have, the depth set you can start fishing in earnest. Make sure you cover the entire drift buy make three or four cast in the same location. Then Cast out a foot or two farther for three or four cast. You will want to continue this until you are sure that you have covered all of the fishable water. It is important that you make a cast in the same location for three or four times. Steelhead will often just ignore your jig the first time that it passes them. When it keeps floating by, they are likely to hit it just because it is bothering them.

Steelhead fishing has a complex quantity of rules and you will learn that many of them work. However, you will find that not all of them work all the time. It is a good idea if you are fishing a drift that you know has steelhead in it and you have not gotten any strikes that you change things up. You may want to try some type of attractant. Try adding a small spawn sack, maybe a small piece of shrimp, or even one of the many scents that are available today. Change colors and the size of your jigs if your old faithful steelhead jig is not working.

There will be times where for what ever reason the steelhead are suspend in the river and not hanging on the bottom like normal so do not be afraid of raising your jig off the bottom if you are not having any luck fishing deep.

As with any new technique, it may take you a while to master it. Be persistent and give this technique an honest try it works and works well for many Steelhead anglers. Once you realize how productive fishing a jig is you too will be hooked.

I know a lot of hard core Fly Fisherman will have a fit to hear that I do still use a spinning rod, and casting rod for catching fish but I just love fishing of any kind.

Taking many of my less experienced friends and some for first time Steelhead fishing I have found a way to get them hooked into a fish without much coaching. This technique is simple to learn and if done properly losing gear is at a minimum. This is great for the first timers or the less experience because it lets them spend more time fishing and less time tying up riggings. This system is also very productive if done properly and I have caught quite a few steelhead using this method myself.

Using a slip bobber or float is one of the easiest ways to take steelhead that I have found for the bank fisherman this method is also used by boaters since it is so productive. With the slip bobber you are able to adjust the depth of your jig or bait so that it drifts just off the bottom of the river. I have seen this method used by fishermen fishing off of a jetty or pier and they too had very good success while using this method.

One of the best place to use this method is in a slow flowing section of the river the depth of the hole is not important since you are able to adjust the depth of the jig easily. As long as the current is slow enough to allow the jig or bait to drift naturally and the depth remains constant at least through a portion of the hole it should be a good place to try this method.

Knowing where the steelhead like to lay is the key to this system as with any fishing technique, and the easiest way to find this out is to watch where others are fishing if any are around. Once you learn how to read a river you will be able to use this technique in a number of spots, learning how to read a river will come with time. If you are new to the sport most fisherman will be glad to give you some pointers just be courteous when joining your fellow fishermen on the river.

When you find that place where you are going to fish the technique is simple cast upstream from where you are standing watch the corky once your line hits the water. Make sure the corky is on top of your float if it’s not you may have to give your line a sharp short jerk to get your jig to flow freely through your float. Let your float drift naturally through the hole and keep up the slack in your line. Most of the time when a fish hits your jig your float will go under, however watch your float closely and if it should make any unnatural movement set the hook.

Items Required:

Slip bobber Barrel swivel Jig Egg Sinker Corky Bobber Stop

Setting up your line:
1st slip on the bobber stop then bead and run it up the line about 5 feet or so
2nd Thread on the corky
3rd Thread on your float
4th Thread on the Egg Sinker
5th Now tie one end of your swivel to the end of your line. (I like to use the double cinch knot)
6th Take your jig and tie it to your leader which should be between 12 to 18 inches long.
The leader should be lighter then you’re main line.
7th Tie the jig and leader to your swivel.

Once you have this tied up it should look something like the following example!

If you are having trouble with this system or just would like some more information on this technique you may email me and russ@steelhead-salmon-trout-fishing.com and I will try to help you out.